Lying south of Naples, the Amalfi Coast comprises the southern flank of the Sorrento Peninsula, looking out on the Bay of Salerno. Dana Facaros and Michael Pauls, in their book Bay of Naples & Southern Italy (Cadogan Press), begin this way: "When confronted with something generally acclaimed to be the most beautiful stretch of scenery in the entire Mediterranean, the honest writer is at a loss. Few who have been there would argue the point, but describing it properly is another matter."

It is hard to believe—given the chic boutiques, Michelin-starred dining, and gleaming yachts—that this coastline has only become well known in the last 50 years. Sorrento became a popular resort in the 1700s and opened its first hotel in 1798, but strictly speaking, Sorrento is on the northern coast, part of the Bay of Naples. The southern coast was, until less than a hundred years ago, only accessible by boat, with the villages tucked into coves between the jutting cliff faces alongside the pebbled shore. These simple, isolated fishing villages became an attraction for artists, writers, and adventurous travelers. The famous followed suit: Liza Minelli and Elizabeth Taylor visited as guests at Franco Zeffirelli's villa; Gore Vidal decided to settle here; Giorgio Armani arrives by helicopter to dine.

For aficionados, the best way to see the Coast is still by boat. Hydrofoils serve as public transportation, linking various points of interest with fast, efficient service year-round. From Positano, perhaps the most important and chic town for tourists, you can rent your own boat at the Spiaggia Grande, or main beach. Choose between simple rubber rafts you pilot yourself, modern powerboats, or the elegant, classic "Riva," with its sleek wood hull and shallow profile. Skippers are available should you prefer. The pebble beaches along the coast are all public, but most are accessible only by water. With a boat you can find a deserted cove for secluded swimming or sunning, or reach the various coastal villages for sightseeing, shopping, and dining without having to tangle with the traffic.

Positano has emerged as the epicenter along the Coast, the largest of the villages hugging the coastline, and its most vertical. There are two large beaches, numerous cafes, trattorie, and restaurants.

Then comes Amalfi—once a great powerful republic rivaling Venice, with 60,000 inhabitants. The exceptional architecture—particularly the striking Duomo di Sant'Andrea with its cloister and newly refurbished museum—is alone worth the trip. A classic turn-of-the-century cafe sits in the Piazza below the Duomo's threatrical stairs where you can sit for hours contemplating the light as it shifts across the tiered and bedecked facade.